When you picture New Jersey, what comes to mind? Is it flashes of gritty urban cities or perhaps large swaths of the industrial highway?
- Best Hiking Trails in NJ
- 10 – Cape May Point Trail – Cape May Point State Park
- 9 – Batsto Lake Trail – Wharton State Forest
- 8 – MacEvoy, Castle Point, and Cannonball Trails – Ramapo Mountain State Forest
- 7 – Black River Trail Loop – Black River County Park
- 6 – Grand Loop Trail, Falling Waters Trail, & Highlands Trail – Schooley’s Mountain Park
- 5 – Hemlock Falls Trail – South Mountain Reservation
- 4 – Pakim Pond Loop Trail & Mount Misery Trail – Brendan T. Byrne State Forest
- 3 – Stairway to Heaven Trail – Wawayanda State Park
- 2 – White Shore and Long Path Loop Trail – The Hudson Pallisades
- 1- Mount Tammany and Sunfish Pond – Delaware Water Gap
If you’ve mislabeled the Garden State as nothing more than a wasteland of factories and diesel fumes, you’re missing out on the wild, natural beauty that led Walt Whitman to spend the last two decades of his life here.
New Jersey is a peninsula of sorts, bounded on the east by the Hudson River, New York Bay, and the Atlantic, and on the south and west, the Delaware Bay and river.
In the northwest, products of the last ice age, ridges, and mountains line the state. They’re not as magnificent as the Rockies in terms of scale, but they’re scenic and green nonetheless.
Further to the south is the Coastal Plain, where rolling hills give way to a mixture of farmland, rivers, coastline, wetlands, and the mighty pinelands.
The state is as varied as any other and has a rewarding topography for those willing to look beyond the routes between New York City and Philadelphia.
The Great Falls of Passaic is the second-largest waterfall east of the Mississippi, and the pinelands make up 19% of the total area of New Jersey.
Despite it being the most densely populated state, New Jersey outranks twenty-five other U.S. states in the percentage of natural open space. 40% of the land is traditional forests!
New Jersey is home to parts of the Appalachian Trail and the astonishing views of the Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area. “The Water Gap” is becoming so popular that Outside Online pointed to it as one of the top three choices for our next National Park.
Wildlife in New Jersey is just as diverse as the people you find living in it. Not only do white-tailed deer call this state home, but so do black bears, bobcats, bald eagles, foxes, and coyotes.
Even the weather is varied. Winters see deep snows and subzero temperatures. New Jersey summers can make it feel like Georgia, thanks to the humidity and heat.
The State of New Jersey was amongst the first in the nation to create a state and forest system. It extends from historic sites like Morristown National Historical Park to the beautiful seashores Sandy Hook.
Most county governments in New Jersey have park and preserve systems, with Essex County being the first in the nation to establish a county park system, beginning with Newark’s Branch Brook Park (which has more cherry trees than Washington D.C.) in 1895.
As you venture outdoors and enjoy the vistas from High Point, the New York City Skyline from Giant Stairs, and bask in the silence of the Pine Barrens, don’t forget we have a responsibility to protect our wild places. Use trail etiquette to ensure our lands are as clean as when you found them.
Best Hiking Trails in NJ
While I don’t claim to have hiked every trail in the state, I have done most. The 10 hiking trails you find below cover what we deemed the best hikes in New Jersey.
To avoid covering the same places with multiple trails (Delaware Water Gap, Brendan T. Byrne, and Wawayanda State Park), I chose to elect what I think is the best hike from each of those locations. So you will only see one trail per location. If your favorite trail missed the cut, it’s likely due to this reason.
Preparedness
Failing to plan means planning to fail. Whether you’re a native or a visitor, you should know a few things about hiking in New Jersey.
Ticks are not only a pest but can come with severe consequences, such as Lyme disease. The mosquito is jokingly referred to as the state bird of NJ and for good reason. Mosquitos are everywhere in the dead of summer, especially the closer you get to the Pine Barrens and wetlands. The moral: always wear bug repellent.
The heat of summer, mixed with taxing terrain and varying metabolisms, mean you’ll be thirsty in no time. Always carry water with you. It never hurts to bring more than you think you’ll need.
10 – Cape May Point Trail – Cape May Point State Park
Interactive Map
Difficulty: Easy
Distance: 1.9 mi.
Approximate hiking time: 1 hour
Route type: Loop
Elevation gain: 9 ft.
Trail surface: Boardwalks, sandy paths, and the beach
Seasons: Alll
Dog compatibility: Dogs are not permitted on the beach from April 15 through September 15; otherwise, leashed dogs permitted
Land status: State park
Nearest town: West Cape May
Fees and permits: None
Schedule: Dawn to dusk
Trail contacts: Cape May Point State Park, P.O. Box 107, Cape May Point 08212; (609) 884-2159; New Jersey State Park Service – Cape May Point State Park
The inclusion of this trail might come as a surprise to some, especially if you’ve never been to this part of the state, but it is so unique that it made sense to include Cape May Point Trail on a list of best hikes in NJ.
Cape May Point State Park is a wonderful location for bird-watching and provides a friendly, brisk hike on boardwalks, sandy paths, the beach, salt marshes, and mixed forest trails. You’ll go up and over dunes and walk along with freshwater ponds and the Atlantic Ocean.
Cape May is the most southern point of New Jersey (Exit 0 off Garden State Parkway) and falls below the Mason-Dixon line. Due to the distance from Philadelphia and New York City, Cape May Point Trail is the least hiked on our list (which is fine by us). Even still, it’s pretty popular and you’re bound to spot other hikers.
You’ll see the beautiful Cape May Lighthouse and a World War II bunker on the path.
History of the Cape May Lighthouse and Bunker
Built in 1857-59, the 157-foot Cape May Lighthouse is near the village of Cape May Point and continues to serve as an aid to navigation. It’s open to the public (for a small fee), and if you have the time, you should climb up the 199 steps to the top for a spectacular panoramic view of the peninsula.
The Cape May Lighthouse is the third beacon at this location. The first two, built in 1823 and in 1847, were dismantled due to poor building design and the encroaching sea.
The lighthouse we know today was turned off from 1941 to 1945 as a wartime precaution. It sits near the ruins of a concrete artillery bunker built by the Army Corps of Engineers in early 1942.
The bunker was once 900 feet inland, but it now sits on pilings over the surf due to beach erosion. The decay has left the bunker off-limits and, at the current rate, will likely collapse into the surf.
The park is managed by the New Jersey Division of Parks and Forestry with the Nature Conservancy managing the adjacent South Cape May Meadows (a nature preserve).
Local Events/Attractions
Walking through Cape May transports you through Victorian architectural history and makes for a great stroll. You can also visit the Emlen Physick Estate, a landmark 1879 mansion rescued by the Mid-Atlantic Center for the Arts.
Cape May Point has beautiful quartz pebbles (referred to as “Cape May diamonds”) created by thousands of years of waves. Local merchants often turn them into all types of fine jewelry, although I recommend searching for your own in the sands.
A little further north, you’ll find Cape May National Wildlife Refuge. Here, piping plovers, an endangered beach-nesting bird, call home.
Lodging
While they’re a bit pricey, Cape May has loads of quaint bed-and-breakfasts. If you want to save a few dollars, go to North Cape May and Wildwood Crest.
What to Spot
The birdwatching in Cape May, especially along the trail, is some of the best in New Jersey (matched, perhaps, only by the Palisades Cliffs). The Cape May Peninsula acts as a funnel for birds migrating along the Atlantic Flyway.
Along the path, you’ll find red-winged blackbirds, black-bellied plovers, dunlins, and greater yellowlegs arriving in the Spring.
If you’re heading to Cape May Point Trail in the summer, you’ll find mallards, black ducks, and gadwalls. From the late summer and into autumn, you’ll see hordes of dragonflies and vividly colored monarch butterflies.
Throughout the autumn months, you’ll find flickers, kingbirds, and blue jays. Hawks also pass this location heading south along their migration route.
9 – Batsto Lake Trail – Wharton State Forest
Interactive Map
Difficulty: Easy
Distance: 4 mi.
Approximate hiking time: 2 hours
Route type: Loop
Elevation gain: 130 ft.
Trail surface: A combination of sandy paths, bog bridges, and trails
Dog compatibility: Leashed dogs are permitted
Land status: State forest
Nearest town: Nesco
Fees and permits: None
Schedule: Dawn to dusk
Trail contacts: Wharton State Forest, 4110 Nesco Road, Hammonton 08037; (609) 561-0024; New Jersey State Park Service – Wharton State Forest
Special considerations: While swimming is permitted, you can only swim while lifeguards are present. Ticks are particularly bad in Wharton State Forest – I recommend using 100% deet bug spray.
At just over four miles, this hike is a mixture of pine-oak forest that winds through the Batsto Natural Area, including Batsto Lake. Far from city life, this trail is filled with Atlantic white cedar, very old pitch pine, and sandy paths. It’s a fantastic place to go if you need a break from reality.
Along this path, you’ll briefly encounter Batona Trail, which we cover in the Brendan T. Byrne section of this article.
If you’re looking to continue your hike, you can stop by the walking tour of the Batsto Historical Village.
Do You Know the Difference Between Pine Barrens and Pine Lands?
Learn more about NJ’s 1.1 million acres of Pinelands National Reserve.
Batsto Lake Trail holds a special place in my heart because I grew up just a few miles down the road. My dad would take my brother and me canoeing and swimming in nearby creeks and rivers. He would tell us scary stories of Mrs. Leeds and the Jersey Devil (rumored to live in the Pine Barrens). Unfortunately, my dad is long gone, but I’m reminded of his memory every time I walk these trails.
While this particular loop is only four miles long, Wharton State Park offers miles of trails to those who choose to hike it.
If going at the beginning of summer, keep in mind that swaths of the white trail are in direct sunlight and it can be quite brutal for the unexpected. All types of bugs love this area, so keep the bug spray handy and tuck your pants into your socks to avoid ticks by your ankles.
History of Wharton State Forest
You might recognize the Wharton name from the Wharton School of Finance and Commerce at the University of Pennsylvania. It is, in fact, named after the same man: Joseph Wharton, a Philadelphia Quaker, and businessman of prominent lineage.
He was an industrialist, metallurgist, philanthropist, and poet. He also owned a number of iron and zinc mines and factories throughout New Jersey and Pennsylvania.
Wharton took a liking to Batsto and spent vast sums of money fixing up an old ironmaster’s house nearby and transforming it into a magnificent mansion that you can still see today.
During his time, he removed old structures, improved forestry and agriculture on the property, and enlarged it. By the time Wharton was done acquiring his ground, he owned 110,000 acres of pinelands. He had aspirations of damming streams to create reservoirs on the property where he would make it a water supply for Philadelphia.
The New Jersey Legislature didn’t want NJ water pumped out of the state, so they put an end to his idea. Upon Wharton’s death in 1909, his heirs negotiated the sale of the property to the state of New Jersey for $3 million (an equivalent of $36 million today). Despite this, the purchase didn’t go through for another forty years (due to a failed referendum).
The vast quiet green of the Pine Barrens now fully belongs to the state of New Jersey.
Local Events/Attractions
If you’ve traveled all this way to Batsto, we recommend you take a tour of Wharton’s mansion. At the time of writing, it’s only $3.00 for adults and $1 for children 6-11. It’s free for kids under five years old. For more information, check out Batso Village’s website.
The 12-foot Carranza Memorial in Tabernacle marks the spot where Mexican Captain Emilio Carranza Rodriguez was killed while returning from a goodwill flight from Mexico City to New York City. This trek was renowned in its response to the previous year’s flight from NYC to Mexico City by American aviator Charles Lindbergh.
Mullica, Batsto, Wading, and Oswego Rivers provide for some amazing kayaking and canoeing. A word of advice though, bring a lot of bug spray. Greenhead flies, mosquitos, and their ilk are not to be taken lightly.
Lodging
Camping and cabins are available in Wharton State Forest.
What to spot
They’re typically hard to spot through the thick of trees, but alert visitors might find a slew of birds, including bald eagles, red-tailed hawks, marsh hawks, ospreys, great blue herons, swans, screech owls, great-horned owls, and more.
Other wildlife critters, such as river otters, beavers, fox, and deer also call the Pine Barrens home.
8 – MacEvoy, Castle Point, and Cannonball Trails – Ramapo Mountain State Forest
Interactive Map
Difficulty: Moderately challenging
Distance: 5.5 mi.
Approximate hiking time: 3 hours
Route type: Loop
Elevation gain: 750 ft.
Trail surface: Woods trails and rocky terrain
Dog compatibility: Leashed dogs are permitted
Land status: State forest
Nearest town: Oakland
Fees and permits: None
Schedule: Dawn to dusk
Trail contacts: NJ State Park Service; (973) 962-7031; 67 Skyline Drive, Oakland NJ 07436; ringwood@dep.nj.gov; New Jersey State Park Service – Ramapo Mountain State Forest
Special considerations: Swimming is not permitted at Ramapo Lake, however, you’re welcome to fish. Of note, parking areas can fill up quickly on the weekend (it is relatively deserted during the weekdays).
Ramapo Mountain State Forest sits at 4,269-acres and provides some great hiking in New Jersey. Depending on which trails you take, there are boulders, lakes, castle ruins, and views of the New York City skyline.
The 5.5-mile loop that we are hiking lets you see the best of all four!
MacEvoy Trail and Castle Point Trail take you to the lake for some beautiful views of the water and neighboring mountains. Then you’ll explore the Van Slyke Castle ruins, which, unfortunately, were vandalized with graffiti the last time I went.
While the trail can be enjoyed year-round, the best times to hike are from March through early December. In the spring, the wildflowers come to life, in the autumn, the leaves turn a fiery color, and the winter provides unobstructed views of NYC.
History of Van Slyke Castle
The history of Van Slyke castle is a sad one filled with death and destruction.
In the early 1900s, this mansion was built by Wall Street tycoon William Porter, who named the estate Foxcroft (due to it being built on Fox Hill). Shortly after, in 1911, Porter died in a traffic accident and left it to his wife Ruth A. Coles.
Coles would go on to remarry Manahattan attorney Warren Van Slyke (hence the name). In 1925, Van Slyke died from complications following a gallstone operation.
Coles, now widowed twice, never remarried again. She remained in the house until her death in 1940.
Coles left the home and property to her family, who, after nine years of letting it sit, sold it in 1949 to a new couple. They promptly abandoned the house during a bitter divorce to a woman named Suzanne S. Christie.
Christie abandoned the home shortly after acquiring it for reasons unknown.
In 1959, after years of desertion, vandals burned the long-vacant home and left it in ruins.
The State of New Jersey eventually bought the overgrown remains in the mid-1970s from the estate of Clifford MacEvoy, a wealthy public works contractor (to who our trail is named).
Local Events/Attractions
Just a few miles down the road is Ringwood State Park (where you should visit Ringwood Manor) and the New Jersey Botanical Garden in Ringwood.
About 10 miles away is J.A. McFaul Environmental Center, a wildlife sanctuary that hosts events and has trails of its own (albeit short ones).
What to spot
While I’ve personally never seen anything more than squirrels, chipmunks, and what I think was a skunk (I didn’t get too close), some friends mentioned they’ve seen red-tailed hawks and owls.
7 – Black River Trail Loop – Black River County Park
Interactive Map
Difficulty: Moderately challenging
Distance: 6.5 mi.
Approximate hiking time: 3 hours
Route type: Loop
Elevation gain: 650 ft.
Trail surface: Woods trails, railroad grade, and farm roads
Dog compatibility: Leashed dogs are permitted
Land status: County park and state park
Nearest town: Chester
Fees and permits: None
Schedule: Dawn to dusk
Trail contacts: Morris County Park Commission, 300 Mendham Road, Morris Township, NJ 07960; 973.326.7600; Morris County Park – Cooper Gristmill
This hike is one of the more diverse in the area with some cool sights along the way and interesting historical features.
The trail takes you under hardwoods, through meadows, along the banks of the Black River, into a hemlock ravine, you’ll pass two cascading waterfalls, lilypad-covered Kay Pond, the stone ruins of a summer cottage, and you can peer into Hacklebarney Mine.
If interested in visiting Cooper Mill at the northern end of our hike is closed from December to March with various opening times from April through October. If going to the mill and visitor center is important to you, I would check the website listed in the “trail contacts.”
History
Kay Pond takes its name from Alfred and Elizabeth Kay, who moved from Pittsburgh in 1924 and built their summer home, called Hidden River Farm, nearby.
During the 1930s, ever the hustler, Mrs. Kay grew and sold herbs by mail. The profits let her open a local tearoom called the Herb Farm.
The Kays donated much of their property to the Morris County Park Commission. In 1994, Hidden River Farm was renamed to the Elizabeth D. Kay Environmental Education Center.
The Hacklebarney Mine, meanwhile, was part of the Chester Iron Mining Company’s operations and was a major iron producer for its time.
From before the American Revolutionary War (1775) to 1896, it’s estimated that 250,000 tons of ore came out of this area. At its peak, iron companies were extracting about 20,000 tons each year.
There were around 14 iron veins running 0.5 mile long, each of which had open cuts and shafts. These shafts were worked by men for 50 cents to a dollar a day and could range anywhere from 1 to 12 feet wide, up to 200 feet high, and 200 feet deep.
In 1881, tragedy struck, when a 300-ton roof collapsed, crushing six men and injuring two more. The shafts remained open for another eight years; closing in 1896.
What to spot
The best seasons to visit the area are spring, summer, and fall. I’ve never been in the winter, but there are many species of wildlife that remain active year-round in this part of New Jersey.
At Kay Pond, you might spot all types of wildlife. Deer, mink, and raccoons all come to the pond to drink. Great blue herons also frequent the area.
6 – Grand Loop Trail, Falling Waters Trail, & Highlands Trail – Schooley’s Mountain Park
Interactive Map
Difficulty: Moderately challenging
Distance: 3.5 mi.
Approximate hiking time: 2 hours
Route type: Loop
Elevation gain: 650 ft.
Trail surface: Woods trails, mine roads, floating bridge
Dog compatibility: Leashed dogs are permitted
Land status: County park
Nearest town: Long Valley
Fees and permits: None
Schedule: Dawn to dusk
Trail contacts: Morris County Park Commission, 300 Mendham Road, Morris Township, NJ 07960; 973.326.7600; Morris County Park – Schooley’s Mountain County Park
Special considerations: The hike is icy and dangerous in winter
This 3.5-mile circular trail skirts George Lake and eventually crosses it on a 470-foot floating bridge (it is closed as of writing), climbs nearly 400 feet before dropping you off along woods roads, passes pools at the cascading Electric Brook, and offers several waterfalls.
On the hike back, you’ll climb aside the Old Rock Quarry with an overlook, which provides great views of Long Valley.
Although I think Grand Loop Trail into Falling Waters Trail and Highlands Trail is the best offering, if you’re looking for more paths to trek, you could also take the nearby Patriots Path, Highlands Cut Trail, and Upland Meadow Trail. All three are worth visiting.
I’m someone who likes to take every opportunity to sit and take in a view and thankfully benches have been placed at various locations along the trail. The shade from trees also offers a very pleasant escape from the summer heat.
History Schooley’s Mountain Park
Sitting on what is now western Morris County, Schooley’s Mountain County Park is an 823-acre recreational park. At one point though, this park was one of the most famous resorts in the United States.
A summer retreat for Philadelphians and New Yorkers, socialites from both cities flocked to the mineral springs for their healing properties (today we know the water’s main mineral ingredient is sodium bicarbonate). Years before them, Lenape Indians also used the springs for healing.
The mountain, named for the Schooley family who owned a considerable portion of land here in the 1790s, housed a resort hotel named the Alpha House. It was built in 1795 but remained relatively unknown until a turnpike was built nearby in 1806.
The Alpha house was so successful and the surrounding area so beautiful that other hotels, including the Heath House and the Belmont Hall were constructed in rapid time.
These hotels brought some of the most powerful men and women of their day, including President Ulysses S. Grant, the Vanderbilts, the Edisons, and U.S. Vice President George M. Dallas (for whom Dallas, Tx is named). Each of them hotel patrons that walked through the mountainous trails we hike today.
While the resort hotels have long since vanished, people still come to Schooley’s Mountain for the fresh air, mineral springs, and scenery.
In October of 1969, the Morris County Park Commission acquired the land from the YMCA of Morristown. Shortly after, in 1974, Schooley’s Mountain County Park was dedicated and opened to the public.
Local Events/Attractions
While you’re here, paddleboats and rowboats may be rented for use on Lake George. Fishing is also permitted, but swimming is not allowed.
Hacklebarney State Park is less than 7 miles away from Schooley’s Mountain Park and is well worth a visit. Since our trail today is relatively short, you should visit Hacklebarney and hike the Black River gorge. There’s a really cool nineteenth-century copper mill that sits on the Black River with an interesting history.
If you’re hungry, historic Hackettstown is about a ten-minute drive (5.5 miles) from Schooley’s and is worth exploring.
What to spot
The wildlife at Schooley’s Mountain Park is what you come to expect from this part of New Jersey due to its ideal habitat. There are more than 100 species of birds, as well as white-tailed deer, foxes, and black bears. Although, whether fortunate or not, I have yet to see a bear in the area.
5 – Hemlock Falls Trail – South Mountain Reservation
Interactive Map
Difficulty: Moderately challenging
Distance: 5.8 mi.
Approximate hiking time: 3.5 hours
Route type: Loop
Elevation gain: 750+ ft.
Trail surface: Woods trails and rocky roads
Dog compatibility: Leashed dogs are permitted
Land status: County park
Nearest town: Millburn
Fees and permits: None
Schedule: Dawn to dusk
Trail contacts: County of Essex Department of Recreation and Cultural Affairs; (973) 268-3500; Essex County Parks Department – South Mountain Reservation
This popular reservation contains a large river, many streams, and three cascades, the largest being Hemlock Falls (a 25-foot waterfall). While we are covering the 5.8-mile loop, there are 19 miles of trails throughout the 2,048-acre woodland.
Except for the very start, there aren’t any long climbs here and the route we are taking fluctuates between trails and broken-stone roads. While a great hike year-round, we recommend going during the spring to see the rhododendron groves that were originally planted way back in 1910.
If you go on a clear day during autumn or winter and when leaves are already on the ground, you may spot the New York City skyline on the Lenape Trail. The view is limited, but it’s there nonetheless. You might also be able to spot the towers of the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge.
The real highlight of the hike is Hemlock Falls (see number 1 on the map above). Also on the Lenape Trail, you’ll reach the base of the cascade after crossing a stream on rocks and descending along a switchback.
Follow the red-on-white stone steps to the top of the waterfall and take a seat on the benches for a beautiful view of the reservation.
History of Washington Rock
Washington Rock is one of the oldest state parks in New Jersey and has played a significant role throughout US history. The first parcel of land was originally purchased in 1913 to commemorate the role it played in the American Revolution.
In June 1777, the strategic location of Washington Rock made it a key lookout point for General George Washington (hence the name) while the British Continental Army, under General William Howe, was encamped in Morristown.
From the vantage point, Washington has a 30-mile panoramic view of the valley and strategically placed his troops behind Howe’s army to cut off their retreat.
When it came time for the Essex County Parks Department to make plans for the reservation, they brought in famed architect and designer Frederick Law Olmsted, who had previously worked on Manhattan’s Central Park and Brooklyn’s Prospect Park.
The design called for a series of romantic drives, paths, and walks that are still there to this day.
Olmsted died before much of the reservation could be done, but his two sons took over the project and finished the plans in 1902. The last significant work done on the reservation was in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps.
In later years, much of the park fell into disrepair and overgrowth. Parts of the park remained in decay until March of 2000 when the South Mountain Conservancy started working on bringing the reservation back to its original state.
Local Events/Attractions
If wildlife is your thing, and if you’re reading this article it likely is, we recommend you check out the Turtle Back Zoo on South Mountain Reservation. It focuses on native NJ wildlife. I recommend visiting the sea turtle recovery center.
What to spot
While on the reservation you might spot red foxes, white-tailed deer, and a slew of turtles.
4 – Pakim Pond Loop Trail & Mount Misery Trail – Brendan T. Byrne State Forest
Interactive Map
Difficulty: Moderately challenging
Distance: 13.5 mi.
Approximate hiking time: 6.5 hours
Route type: Loop
Elevation gain: 250+ ft.
Trail surface: Public roadway (briefly), sandy woods, and sandy trails
Dog compatibility: Leashed dogs are permitted
Land status: State forest
Nearest town: New Lisbon
Fees and permits: None
Schedule: Dawn to dusk
Trail contacts: Brendan T. Byrne State Forest, PO Box 215, New Lisbon 08064; (609) 726-1191; New Jersey State Park Service – Brendan T. Byrne State Forest
Special considerations: Carry sunscreen and bug repellent. Both of which are much needed in the summer.
In this long loop through Brendan T. Byrne State Forest (formerly Lebanon State Forest), you’ll hike just a fraction of this 37,242-acre portion of the Pine Barrens.
While the trail is relatively flat with only a few rises, this hike is considered fairly difficult due to the length and sandy trails.
The route to Pakim Pond to Mount Misery travels through oak-pine forest, flooded and reclaimed cranberry bogs, and the Atlantic white cedar swamps.
Most of the trip is under pines and you’re hidden from the sun, but there’s a portion of open space at the bog that is quite dramatic around midday and in summer. As with most hikes in the Pine Barrens, the trail is best from October through May, after chigger and bug season.
This is a moderately popular trail for hiking, mountain biking, and trail running, so you might run into other travelers. The morning is pretty quiet and you’ll also benefit from cooler temperatures.
The emptiness of the Pine Barrens is one of its main attractions. When you’re here, it’s just you, the white sands below your feet, and the birds overhead. The silence is refreshing.
There are many trails available in this forest, some of which are easier, like Whitesbog Loop, but Byrne State Forest is also home to Batona Trail which is 51.3 miles. The mighty Batona starts at Ong’s Hat and ends just a little past Pilgrim Lake Campground.
History of Brendan T. Byrnes State Forest
Lebanon Glass Works operated in this forest from 1851 to 1867. The glasshouse was known for producing green bottles, windowpanes, and glass canes from charcoal, crushed shells, soda ash, and the nearby white sand.
They were lured by the near-endless supply of sand and wood found within the Pine Barrens. The sand was known for containing 90% silica and was therefore vital to the local economy. They would import the lime shells from the nearby Jersey coast.
Glassmaking at this time was not an environmentally friendly process and it proved to be less than economically feasible as well. To make glass, it took a 10-to-1 ratio of wood to the batch. This led to the depletion of the nearby forest.
When coal and natural gas became the primary source of fuel, this glasshouse would eventually close and, along with the rest of the glass industry, move westward. The families who were supported by working at the factory moved on quickly thereafter.
In 1908, the state acquired the land and began reforestation.
It was named Lebanon State Forest until 2002 when it was renamed Brendan T. Byrne State Forest in honor of the former New Jersey governor who worked to designate the New Jersey Pine Barrens as a National Reserve.
While New Jersey is quite open to public lands now and actively supports their development, during Byrne’s two terms it was a difficult and controversial effort to protect the pinelands. He eventually signed the Pinelands Preservation Act into law in 1979.
The New Jersey Pinelands was the first in the country to be called a National Reserve. This reserve is the largest assemblage of open space in the northeastern United States. Its since achieved recognition as a Biosphere Reserve by the United Nations Educational Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO).
Local Events/Attractions
Whitesbog Historic Farm and Village is located in nearby Browns Mills. The 36-building village was a small cranberry farming village founded in 1857 and played an important role in bringing cranberries to the masses. The Farm and Village are now maintained by a trust that hosts events like blueberry festivals.
Lodging
Camping and cabins are available in Brendan T. Byrne State Forest.
What to spot
The last time Leg and I were on the trail we spotted wild turkeys and lizards. We also heard woodpeckers in the distance, but couldn’t locate them. Some of our neighbors mentioned they saw bluebirds, goldfinches, and some other birds in the distance.
Last winter we saw white tundra swans in the lakes along Mount Misery Trail.
3 – Stairway to Heaven Trail – Wawayanda State Park
Interactive Map
Difficulty: Moderately challenging
Distance: 7.5 mi.
Approximate hiking time: 5 hours
Route type: There and back
Elevation gain: 1,100+ ft.
Trail surface: Hiking trail and boardwalk
Dog compatibility: Leashed dogs are permitted
Land status: State park, national scenic trail
Nearest town: Vernon
Fees and permits: None
Schedule: Dawn to dusk
Trail contacts: Wawayanda State Park, 885 Warwick Turnpike, Hewitt 07421; (973) 853-4462; wawayandacamping@dep.nj.gov; New Jersey State Park Service – Wawayanda State Park
Special considerations: During heavy rain, the boardwalk section of this hike may be flooded. This is an extremely popular trail and parking may be difficult. Like most of our trails, bugs are considerable and you should prepare by using bug spray.
While this 7.5-mile there-and-back trail is considered challenging, the valley portion is flat and easy to navigate. The mountain portion, however, is strenuous with steep elevation changes.
For those that hike it, Stairway to Heaven offers great lookout points; the first being Annie’s Bluff and the other being Pinwheel’s Vista (near the end of your hike).
Stairway to Heaven is part of the Appalachian Trail (AT) and is a significant change of pace for those walking it. Whereas the AT up to this point passes through mountains, here you find an easy walk through meadowlands, pastures, and farm fields.
When walking via Pochuck Valley to the Stairway to Heaven, you’re walking through a historically rich locale.
The hike passes through a Native American archaeological site and just a few miles north of the trail is the Black Creek Site State and National Prehistoric District.
The trail also passes through farms going back to the Revolutionary War period.
If you’d prefer a shorter trek, you can skip the Pochuck Valley portion of this trail and head straight to Stairway to Heaven. That hike is 2.8 miles and will take roughly 2.5 hours for us slow walkers.
History of Stairway to Heaven Trail
The Appalachian Trail is the nation’s first designated National Scenic Trail. It extends over 2,190 miles from Springer Mountain in Georgia to Mount Katahdin in Maine. The AT formed a unique partnership between 14 states, the National Park Service, the United States Forest Service, and the Appalachian Trail Conservancy.
Volunteers of the New York-New Jersey Trail Conference manage and maintain the 72 miles of the AT in New Jersey.
First built in 1937, during the first sixty years of the Appalachian Trail’s existence in the Pochuck region, it followed country roads and changed very little. As decades passed and housing developments grew, it became clear that the AT needed to move to its own area.
Thanks to volunteering efforts and staff from the Appalachian Trail Conference, New York-New Jersey Trail Conference, the New Jersey Department of Environmental Protection, and the National Park Service, some major rerouting occurred.
The new route, named the “Stairway to Heaven,” was built in the 1980s by volunteers from all over.
The valley portion, meanwhile, had its own set of difficulties. Volunteers needed to figure out ways to cross wetlands and rivers. Beginning in 1999 and ending in 2002, 1.5 miles of boardwalk was built on top of 900 metal piers that go as far down as 20 feet.
Local Events/Attractions
Wawayanda State Park is a substantial 35,000 acres and offers beautiful hiking trails, swimming, and boating. There’s also a nearby water park and ski resort called Mountain Creek that offers several recreational experiences.
Lodging
There are a few hotels in nearby Vernon that offer a reasonably close drive to AT and our trail.
What to spot
Due to the popularity of the trail, you probably won’t spot too many land animals. There are signs, however, warning of timber rattlesnakes and northern copperheads on the mountain top. The last time I was at Stairway to Heaven someone saw a black bear, so that is something to be aware of.
2 – White Shore and Long Path Loop Trail – The Hudson Pallisades
Interactive Map
Difficulty: Hard
Distance: 4.1 mi.
Approximate hiking time: 3.5 hours
Route type: Loop
Elevation gain: 750+ ft
Trail surface: Paved paths, stone steps, foot paths, boulders, and old highway
Seasons: Spring through fall
Dog compatibility: Leashed dogs are permitted
Land status: Interstate park
Nearest town: Alpine
Fees and permits: None
Schedule: Dawn to dusk
Trail contacts: Palisades Interstate Park, New Jersey Section, PO Box 155, Alpine 07620-0155; (201) 768-1360; NJ Palisades
Special considerations: This is a rugged and difficult hike with large cliffs. It may not be suitable for children and dogs. Be on the lookout for poison ivy, especially on Shore Trail.
Hiking North Jersey wouldn’t be complete without heading to the Pallisades.
Offering beautiful views of the New York City skyline, Palisades Interstate Park is notorious for its difficult to climb stone stairs and boulders. While relatively short, this dramatic and challenging route can take close to four hours for slower hikers (like myself).
Due to its relative proximity to the George Washington Bridge, it’s a very popular area for hiking. Expect to encounter other people while exploring. For those looking for a more quiet hike, it’s best to go midweek or at dawn on the weekends.
The Palisades Interstate Park, established in 1900 to curb queries from opening, is approximately 12 miles long and half a mile wide and contains 2,500 acres of Hudson River shorefront, uplands and cliffs.
1965, the U.S. Department of the Interior and the National Park Service designated the Palisades Interstate Park a National Historic Landmark.
The Long Path, which you will spend half of your journey on, runs along the top of the Palisade Cliffs and offers beautiful views. Along this path is Point Lookout, which offers bird watchers the best opportunity to spot hawks, falcons, and more.
The lookout also offers observation binoculars to pick out some landmarks, including the Tappan Zee Bridge (far left), the water tower from the now-defunct Anaconda Cable and Wire Company (straight ahead), and twin brick smokestacks of the abandoned Glenwood Power Station (to the right).
At the base of the Palisades, you’ll take Shore Trail along the Hudson River and enjoy the sound of lapping water. Both trails are linked by several connecting trails, including Closter Dock Trail and Forest View Trail.
The high cliffs provide a superb vantage point of the river below and Westchester County on the opposite side. Like most hikes in New Jersey, autumn is the perfect time to trek. A range of flame-colored oak, maple, sweetgum, and tulip trees line Shore Trail.
History of the Hudson Palisades
At the banks of the Hudson, lies ghostly remains of an Italian garden designed by the artist Mary Lawrence-Tonetti around 1900. Lawrence-Tonetti came from an old prominent New York family who established a summer home at nearby Sneden’s Landing in 1870s.
The waterfall on this hike, Half-Moon Falls, was on the southern end of their property. She and her family built lavish gardens, a pool, grotto, and niches at the base of the waterfall with a terrace, bench, and columned pergola on the edge of the river.
Alas, with Lawrence-Tonetti’s death in 1945, all that was built fell into decay. It now lies in ruin, with vandals defacing certain parts and abandonment claiming others. Shortly after her death, the family donated the land to the park commission.
The magic and beauty of the Palisades transport you into a fairy-tale and for this reason, it makes our top ten list of the top hiking trails in NJ.
Local Events/Attractions
The Kearny House, an eighteenth-century homestead, is within the park itself and offers history buffs a chance to see where General Cornwallis stayed the night in 1776.
Meanwhile, Fort Lee Historic Park is a little over 12 miles away and the northern overlooks provide unparalleled views of the George Washington Bridge. If you’re interested in the structure at all, it’s not to be missed! There’s also an annual “retreat weekend” event held in November to commemorate the Continental Army’s strategic “Retreat to Victory” in 1776.
What to spot
During the fall months, be on the lookout for sharp-shinned hawks, ospreys, broad-winged hawks, peregrine falcons, and monarch butterflies.
Spring brings great blue herons and swallows, whiler summer sees double-crested cormorants and red-tailed hawks soar along the cliffs.
While I haven’t spotted one yet, bald eagles are said to spend time on the cliffs. If you see one, be sure to let us know!
1- Mount Tammany and Sunfish Pond – Delaware Water Gap
Interactive Map
Difficulty: Hard
Distance: 9.7 mi.
Approximate hiking time: 9.7 mi.
Route type: Loop
Elevation gain: 1,500+ ft.
Trail surface: Grass, steep, and rocky
Seasons: Spring through fall; the ascent of Mount Tammany is unsafe in winter
Dog compatibility: Leashed dogs are permitted
Land status: National recreation area, natural area, and state forest
Nearest town: Delaware Water Gap, PA
Fees and permits: None
Schedule: Dawn to dusk
Trail contacts: Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area, River Road off Route 209, Bushkill, PA 18324; (570) 588-2451; National Parks Service – Delaware Water Gap
Other: The Water Gap is a very popular hike and is typically crowded on the weekends. If you want quiet, go midweek.
Special considerations: Be aware of rattlesnakes
Hiking NJ wouldn’t be complete without a trip to Mount Tammany. Often described as “one of the finest views in the East,” Mount Tammany is a trendy area for camping and hiking. You’ll likely encounter other people while exploring Sunfish Pond and the outlook.
The circuit we prefer takes you up Mount Tammany, continues on the Kittatinny Ridge, and takes you down to Sunfish Pond, known locally as one of New Jersey’s Seven Natural Wonders. The return takes you down Dunnfield Hollow, along a creek, by cascading waterfalls and pools lined with rhododendron.
If you’d prefer a shorter trek, there’s the Red Dot and Blue Dot Loop Trail. That hike is 3.6 miles and has a similar elevation. You’ll miss out on Sunfish Pond, though.
The Delaware Water Gap is considered by many to be a Natural Wonder of New Jersey. A place where artists, hikers, campers, and vacationers come to marvel at the beauty.
Before you is an impressive 400-foot-wide gorge created over hundreds of millions of years with multiple layerings of sandstone, shale, and conglomerates at the bottom of a seabed. All along you lies thousand-foot walls and a 390-mile river that flows from New York’s Catskill Mountains and ends in the Delaware Bay.
The Delaware River is a marvel in its own right: one of the cleanest rivers in the USA and the only major free-flowing river in the East.
Mount Tammany (summit 1,527 feet) is named for the Lenape chieftain Tammamend, who first sold William Penn a tract of land.
The start of your trek is the bottomland, where you will pass under massive tulip trees. Here, you will start your ascent by traversing the Bloomsburg Red ledges made from highly resistant sandstones (red from oxidized iron and green because of low-grade copper). If you look carefully, you might spot the striations made by embedded rock in the passing ice mass.
From here, your climb will take you to the top of Mount Tammany. Through pines and scrub oaks, you’ll scramble down to the outlook where you’ll have the most dramatic view in New Jersey. The outlook surveys the Delaware River, Arrow Island, and Mount Minsi (1,463 feet).
After taking in the view, you’ll continue the loop by traversing the Kittatinny Ridge through a chestnut oak forest. If you look at the base of nearby tree trunks, you find charred bark from recent fires.
Following Turquoise Trail and the Fire Road, you’ll find Sunfish Pond, the most southern glacial lake on the Appalachian Trail. This 44-acre glacial pond was formed during the last ice age and is a designated National Natural Landmark.
The unique natural water chemistry of the pond allows only a few hardy species of fish to survive in the waters. While it might be tempting, swimming in the pond or camping in the immediate area is prohibited.
Due to Sunfish Pond’s popularity, this is where you’ll typically find the most tourists on your hike.
Descend on the Dunnfield Creek Trail into a mixed forest. As you follow the trail, you’ll end your hike at the Dunnfield Creek Natural Area (1,085 acres).
Local Events/Attractions
Delaware Water Gap, PA, is a historic town and features some great restaurants, cafes, bakeries, and antique shops.
Lodging
You’re free to camp as long as you’re in one of the designated areas:
- Developed campgrounds
- Group campsites
- Backcountry camping
- River camping
What to spot
While Sunfish Pond is beautiful and mesmerizing, keep your wits about you. During the spring and fall, timber rattlesnake (state endangered species) and copperheads sun themselves on the pond’s rocky shores. Both of these snakes are venomous, and you should monitor them with caution.
There you have it. Compass and Pine’s best hiking in New Jersey. Despite not having a National Park, there are more trails in the state than most people give us credit for. No matter where you live, South Jersey, Central Jersey, or North Jersey, beautiful hikes are around.
Now go out and enjoy the fresh air!
Further Reading
Chazin, Daniel D., and Bruce Scofield. 50 Hikes in New Jersey. The Countryman Press, 2020.
Estes, Priscilla A. AMC’s Best Day Hikes in New Jersey: Four-Season Guide to 50 of the Best Trails in the Garden State, from the Skylands to the Shore. Appalachian Mountain Club Books, 2019.
McPhee, John. Pine Barrens. Farrar, Straus and Giroux, 1978.
Did we miss your favorite hike? Let us know why it should be added in the comments below.
Leave a Reply